Well rested and refreshed, it was time to move on. Today, I’m heading for Tagong, famous for its grasslands. It would have been great to ride there but there’s a 4,000m pass (and freezing cold, too) to surmount and I wasn’t exactly looking forward to another oxygen-deprived ride. The plan was simple — take the mini-van to Banmei, about 80km away, and then ride the remainder of the 38km or so to Tagong (I was assured that it was all downhill from Banmei but…I’ve heard that one before). As well, I would not be able to make Luding and still keep to schedule, as this route is longer and adds a couple of days to my already tight itinerary.
So here I am, after a hearty breakfast of ‘pau’, and looking at the van that’s going to take me to Banmei . I had expected one of those tourist passenger vans, but somehow this one seemed a little shabby…..
A short distance out of town, the van stopped and the driver (in red shirt) proceeded to unload my bike to take in goods for Banmei. He explained that it'd be better if my bike was on top, which made sense.
So what was the load? Freshly slaughtered chickens! Oh man, I thought, I'm gonna suffocate with the stench of decomposing meat (think wet Pudu market, meat section)
But thankfully, because of the cold air, there was practically no smell whatsoever.
The road to Banmei is alpine country...the rich verdant greenery was so amazingly beautiful.
At this particular point, the river is crystal clear, gurgling over rocks that were reddish in colour. The driver very kindly stopped here for me and the other passenger to take in the views
I made a very smart choice in not riding the road to Banmei ... this was a particularly nasty section. Even the van had trouble getting up, so we came done and walked. Did I mention that it's freezing cold here?
Where we had just driven up from
A little after we descended the other side of the pass, the landscape changed dramatically -- arid and flat, very Tibetan.
Just before the town of Banmei where I started my ride to Tagong. The guy does the Danba-Banmei route almost everyday to deliver goods (and the occasional cyclo tourists and backpackers)
On the road, I was hailed with a 'Tashi Delek' from a passing monk ... I'm in the real Tibet now! (Tashi Delek: 'hello' in Tibetan)
The most happening place in Banmei -- where similar vans to the one I rode in congregate to pick up fares, either to Tagong, or to Danba.
The landscape was beginning to be take on a decidedly Tibetan influence. I was so glad I changed plans.
Just outside of Banmei, I stopped at this promising looking shop to have lunch
More 'Tashi Deleks' ... from these local slackers upholding China's national pastime, including the boss and cook.
The youngest waiter ever to have served me. He very dutifully poured me hot cha. Actually it was more like dragging the thermos across the floor.
The little fella was a joy to be with. Another one of those moments that really make your day.
How cold was it here? Count the layers...
Dad cooks up a storm while mom waits to serve it piping hot
Rice vermicelli soup and fried julienned potato with yak meat.
I gave up on the inner-tube yak meat after a couple of chews (discarded on the right side of plate)... As usual the food was spicy, salty and oily.
The road here is of the all-concrete variety...harsh but more lasting
Colourful prayer flags of every configuration are to be found all along the road.
Grand entrance to some grand monastery
Typical Tibetan architecture
I was right again, or rather, I was conned again. It never fully turned out to be ‘downhill all the way to Tagong’. It was more like half and half, although the gradient was a little more forgiving than the one that went up to pass before Banmei. Still, it took a bit of effort, but the scenery more than made up for it. When it gets a little tough, I always stop to soak in the scenery and just be thankful that I can be here admiring God’s wonderful handiwork instead of slaving for the man in the office 🙂
The first thing that greets the visitor to Tagong — a prayer flag-covered hillside, and the looong row of prayer wheels of the town’s monastery.
The red building is the monastery and the guesthouse I stayed in, Snowland GH, is just next to it, the one with the red and white signboard.
First order of business — food.
Sally Kham, the owner of Snowland, and her mother run the place. They’re not very good cooks but they more than make up for it with their genuine warmth and friendliness. This here’s is a dish of over-fried eggs and bacon and apple/cucumber salad.
Overly fried potato crisps...tastes great when you're hungry
My room, on the first floor
And the view of the hill from my room.
Tomorrow — exploring Tagong and its surrounds.
Danba to Banmei: 80km (by van), uphill all the way to the pass at 4000m, then downhill a bit to Banmei.
Banmei to Tagong: 38km half uphill, half downhill, concrete road all the way.
Distance today: 118km
Distance to date: 496km