Day 8, 12 Sep, from Deutchland to Netherlands, Pt 2

I had no choice but to sit on the staircase for the ride to Emmerich since my bike was in a very inconvenient position, latched onto a railing that led down the steps of the exit. A little later, a seat nearest to the stairs on the upper level was vacant and I quickly took it, while still able to keep an eye on my bike.


Just before Emmerich, as I was preparing to get off, a young German girl of about 20 or so who was standing next to me sensed that it was going to be quite a task getting my whole loaded bike down, asked me very sweetly, ‘Do you need help getting your bike down?’

I guess angels do exist after all 🙂

After helping me, she walked off quickly before I could take a shot of her.


Emmerich was just a small dot on the landscape. The station was rather scrappy looking and had seen better days. The town was quiet with little activity. As I headed out of town, it began to lightly drizzle. With my jacket on, I headed out towards the Rhine, and the little hamlet of Millingen an de Rjin, which is Dutch for Millingen on the Rhine. From there I would soon be in the Netherlands. I loved crossing borders.



Outside the train station


What I’m always on the lookout for


Sculptures like this one facing the Rhine is common throughout Europe




Houses began to take on a decidedly different look … in this case, Dutch.


Just before I reached Millingen, I realized the signs were reading a little differently. Then it dawned upon me that I had already crossed the border into Holland without even knowing it. By then, I was fairly famished and food was on top of my mind.


Main street, Millingen en de Rjin or, Millingen on the Rhine



I spotted a cutesy-looking café and decided to make it my lunch-stop. It was some kind of fast food joint run by a friendly ‘couple’


‘Husband’ and wife, not twins



They were the only one working the cafe



They did serve a mean sandwich though


An interesting subject at the cafe



Interesting toilet of the cafe



After lunch it was time to continue my journey towards Amsterdam. But first, we have to cross the river by ferry..



Waiting for the ferry


This is a passenger/bicycle ferry only, no cars



The Millingen ferry crossing, which was just a stone’s throw away, took less than 5 minutes. The Dutch, I realized later, were friendlier than the Germans and even on the ferry, folks on bicycles were already talking to me, asking me where I was from and appreciated the fact that I had come all this way to see their country (inevitably, they would also ask if I was Indonesian, as the country was once colonized by the Dutch).


Nice comfy seats made from fleece for the more matured cyclists. Check out the handlebars … they like it as high as possible


Once on the other side, there were I had to determine my direction of travel towards Arnhem, about 45kms away.



Can be quite bewildering. The signs in green are for specific routes, usually very scenic. The ones in red are for getting to the next village or town only.





The ride to Arnhem looks vry promising



I met many cyclists along the way. All were friendly. This was Dutch lady #1 of the countless Dutch ladies on bicycles from whom I would ask for help.


This lady didn’t just give me directions, she ask me to follow her until the next town where she would show me the next easy route to take.



The outskirts of Arnhem. I wish I had time to explore this lovely town but I had underestimated the distance. It turned out that Amsterdam was about 134 km away, so I decided that in the interest of time, I would take the train to Amsterdam instead.


The modern, busy side of Arnhem


At the train station



Good thing most Dutch speak some English, as did this helpful ticket lady



Bike -designated carriages are clearly marked


Fellow cyclists on board, all of them heading to Amsterdam. This couple was riding a custom-built tandem built by a well-known woman bike maker in Amsterdam.


Ample space on board


Exactly 1 hour and 4 minutes later, I found myself in the beautiful city of Amsterdam. I couldn’t wait to explore the city but first, I had to sort out the digs for the night — Camp Zeeburg, in the district of Zeeburg, about 20 minutes from central Amsterdam.

After registering and paying the 8.50 Euros (plus an 80ct token for a hot shower), I headed out to the tent area, following directions from the camp map.

It was a very big campsite and I was about to get the shock of my life.


It was a sea of green, blue, yellow, red and other assorted colours. It was also very noisy. My heart sank. All this time, I had been camping in relative luxury – big open spaces, few tents, quiet atmosphere — but this was different. I had stumbled on Woodstock. There were young kids shouting and singing, and the worst of all – the smell of marijuana was thick in the air (grass is legal in Amsterdam).


I finally picked a ‘quieter’ spot by the edge of the water, and where there were fewer tents. The only saving grace was the splendid view from my tent’s entrance – reeds bending in the breeze, ducks and swans and geese swimming and noisily skimming the water as they landed in a big group, and at night,  the amber lights of the bridge would cast a warm glow across the water.

It didn’t feel too bad after all, except that I couldn’t quite take the smell of marijuana constantly wafting through the air. Even the tent behind me was going at it, sitting at the tent entrance doing their thing, blowing through a jar with water gurgling and smoke coming out of it. Looks like happy days are here in Amsterdam.

Next: Exploring the city of Amsterdam.

Distance today: 45km
Distance to date:







Day 7, 11 Sep, Looking for the real Eau de Cologne

By now it’s pretty obvious where the term Eau de Cologne originated from. I’d never thought about it so now it’d be really cool to walk the streets of this old city — this city that was famous not only for its pilgrims that came to the cathedral, it’s fragrantly famous as the city that invented the celebrated 4711 brand of perfumed toilet water, and one that has stood the test of time, too.

The proudly original Eau de Cologne. Fittingly, it’s just a cologne bottle’s throw away from the Dom Cathedral


But first, I had to satisfy my curiosity – there was one other cycle tourer in the campsite that I had to meet. What was fascinating wasn’t his tent, which was rather biggish for a cycle-tourer, but an aluminum trailer box outside the tent.


To finance his travels, he makes beautiful wire-sculptures, like this chandelier.

It turned out to be an Italian who had been on the road for quite while and who, according to him, will continue to be for as long as he can possibly hack it. In his unmistakably Italian accent, he told his story.

He used to travel around in a mobile home but later gave it up for 2 wheels (still 4, if you count the trailer). And how does he finance his travels?

‘Let me show you’ he said and, despite my protestations that his breakfast was all laid out on the trailer box top, began to move his breakfast to the side and opened it up to show me a beautiful hand-made candle chandelier made out of wire. It was an artistic sculpture, of course, and this guy was pretty good.

In fact, he told me he would be here in Cologne for a month because he had been commissioned to produce his wire sculptures for a Christmas shop in the city (believe me, there are such establishments, I had already seen a few).

I had nothing but admiration for this man. ‘When I need more money, I just make my sculptures and sell them,’ he explained very matter-of-factly. Well, if that’s not living your dream, I don’t know what is. More power to you, cycle-dude-with-a-trailer-box traveling the world.

Next — to the bridge of locks and across to the city of Cologne.

I’m here to add one more to the thousands already in place … my handiwork is not very pretty, I must admit, but my wife will think otherwise, I’m sure. And yes, the key is now at the bottom of the Rhine.


MIne is there…somewhere…if you can find it.


The imposing Cathedral Dom…all 500+ feet of it


A replica of the tip of the cathedral outside the church gives visitors an idea of how impressive Cathedral Dom is. Note that the man barely measures one-third of it in height.


The same replica from a different angle


The interior of Cathedral Dom, with sunlight streaming through the beautiful stained glass windows


These churches of old do one thing very well — making visitors feel small


For pilgrims of a different sort. The shopping scene surrounds the church square.


The faithful will always find something to soothe the restless spirit


While I was riding along the promenade next to the river, one of the coolest things on wheels whizzed past me with the unmistakable sound of spinning cranks, accompanied by raucous laughter. The BierBike! When you get on, you must pedal for your beer. There’s a driver and beer is served while you burn away calories. Who needs exercise bikes when you can go for a spin on a Bierbike without feeling guilty? Can’t say much for the guy in seat no. 1 though. I’ll bet he’s just freewheeling.

(2017 update): BierBike is now Uber certified. That means, you can now legally drink and drive. Cheers!!!


Cologne is a beautiful city. Pity I don’t have the time to explore it further.


“Why don’t you get a job like everyone else instead of standing around all day?” Pfttt..



I had been looking at my schedule and I’ve just realized that I have too ambitious an itinerary. Only one thing to do now — take a train to the Dutch border at Emmerich and from there, to Arnhem and Amsterdam. To the train station then, which was just next door to the cathedral.

At the station, there was a girl near the machines and her job seemed to be providing assistance where needed. I obviously needed help so she very kindly and patiently worked it out on the screen where I wanted to go and how much it would cost.

‘What about my bicycle?’ I asked. ‘You have to buy a ticket for that, too’ she replied and proceeded to compute the total cost which came up to 20 Euros – 16 for me and 4 for my Surly. ‘Ok, Thank you very much. Now I need to decide which train I should take.’

7am? Too early and too cold at that hour to be packing up. 8am? Still too rush. 9.30 seemed to be the best bet so I went back to where the ticket-machine-challenged humans queued to buy my ticket.

Tomorrow, I head for Netherlands!

Cologne’s Hauptbanhof, or train station, just next door to the cathedral.


One could choose to buy train tickets directly from a machine or,

One could choose to buy train tickets directly from a machine (like I can understand instructions in German) or…


I could buy from a friendly human. Wiser choice.







Day 6, 10 Sep, Bonn to Cologne. Braving a cold, cloudy, windy day.

I’ve come to the realization that all the research I did on the European weather was not what it was made out to be. ‘Relative’ is the word to use if you want to put things in proper perspective.

First on the list is ‘cool’, which actually means ‘damn bloody cold’, as I found out to my chagrin this morning. Unless, of course, the sun is shining in all its glory. Even then, the moment the sun went behind a cloud, you’d feel the biting chill of the wind in an instant.

The wind is another factor, and it always seems to be blowing in a southerly direction this time of the year – right into my path — then I would only be able to do about 15kph or less. It’s worse when it comes with its good friend the rain.


Earplugs — what a lifesaver. And I sorely needed them last night when one of the boys in the dorm started off on his very melodic and perfectly-in-time snore. I’ve also learnt that the industrial-strength silicone rubber types are better than the foam types. Once you push it in all the way, the world outside is gone. Bliss…..

When I woke up this morning, it was a cold and drizzly day. European weather is most depressing when it’s rainy and cold. I was of 2 minds whether I should head for Cologne or stay another day and check out the town. After breakfast, it was still drizzly and I couldn’t go out anyway. So I chatted with one of the girls in the dorm.

Bonn is known to be some kind of happening cultural centre and the Spanish girl I talked to was here to audition for a role in Verdi’s La Boheme that very afternoon. She was staying the night here to save money. She was from Munich, a soprano, and her favourite song was La Traviata (The Drinking Song), also from La Boheme. It’s amazing the things you can find out about people just by talking to them.

I hope she gets it. She’s such a nice girl. She even told me  (just in case I didn’t know) that there was free breakfast in the kitchen….but of course she didn’t know that by then I’d already had my fill of toast, coffee and milk before she even woke up.

At noon, the checkout hour, the ding-donging came to a head and I decided to go to Cologne instead; mainly because I wanted to see what it was like to ride in lousy weather. So, I suited up to the gills — wind-proof tights and heavy jacket, snow-cap and waterproof/windproof Sealzkin gloves. After all, it was a still a little bit drizzly when I hit the road.

It was overkill … even for me.

The downside of travelling solo? Always having to ask nice strangers to take a shot of you

But first, before I headed out to the river, I had to do a couple of things – visit Beethoven House, and ‘Beethon’, the famous sculpture in Beethoven Park based on Beethoven’s most well-known portrait; you know that one – with the dark brooding looks of a genius composer.

Beethoven House was tucked away in a nondescript street and one could easily miss it. Unfortunately, for most cycle-tourers anyway, one of the disadvantages of touring is that you can’t simply go inside any establishment you like without worrying about your bike and stuff disappearing. So all I could do was pose for a few pictures. Then I went looking for the sculpture.

Beethoven House

It was just around the corner and it was fascinating to be able to finally come face to face with. It was great piece of art … even Beethoven would have approve of its intricate beauty.

Sculpture of Beethoven…from the side



still looking a bit muddled


there it is…the side profile of a genius


Finally, like a symphony, when it all comes together. Presenting, Ludwig von Beethoven, composer extraordinaire.


A plague next to the sculpture explains it all.


Objectives met, I headed for the river but not before stopping at a nearby bakery for a sandwich and a coffee. It was situated right next door to an old church and as usual, I chatted up the owner and he told me the church was called (in German) ‘Giving’ or something like that. I think he meant this was a church that blessed a lot people.


A luxury, by my standards — soft mozzarella cheese, tomato and lettuce held lovingly together by freshly baked bread


The church is just next door. ‘Go and have a look, it’s very beautiful, the cafe owner said. How could I refuse when it comes from a local, and especially when there weren’t any tourists around.


the warm but imposing interior and … no tourists!


A reminder of why He came to Earth — a Son, a Saviour, a Servant, a King.


Sightseeing done, I finally hit the trail again. Barely five minutes down the cycle path by the river, I saw a runner. He was only wearing a t-shirt on top and here I was, cocooned under 3 layers of clothing. I stopped him and asked him to take a picture of me cycling.

I also asked him, ‘You’re not cold’?

‘Oh no, not at all’ he replied casually, while the chilly wind blew on us. I think he must have wanted to say ‘refreshing’.

Show off…

It was almost 2pm, so I knew I had to hustle a bit to reach Cologne before it got too dark. The wind was cold but I was lucky — it didn’t rain. The sky was simply overcast and sulky. After a while, the body started building up some heat and pretty soon, I started shedding my clothes. First, I changed the heavy jacket for the windbreaker. Then I took off the gloves, then the sleeves of the windbreaker went. I was riding hard into the wind, but at least my chest was kept warm.

One of many bridges that span the Rhine


There were plenty of animals to see as well … swans and ducks …




and even animals on rooftops …not real ones, of course.


I love it when the cycle path would suddenly swerve away from the river every once in a while and I would be riding among the trees


and meeting the occasional dog and its owner

Cologne ho! When I finally saw the twin spires of the Cologne’s Cathedral Dom in the distance, I knew I was done for the day. But for the moment, I had to still battle the winds to get to the campsite on the other side of the river.



The famous bridge crossing near Cathedral Dom that I would cross several times the next day.


Famous because of the many, many declarations of love, locked onto the railing for posterity


I’m quite the Casanova, it would seem.


This particular campsite by the Rhine was just as efficiently run but the owner wasn’t exactly Mr Happy… but he was ok. The tent section was quite sparse…just the way I liked it.

After pitching up the tent, I went for a shower, located inside this very swanky building


Showers ain’t free… I had to pay 0.50 Euro for a hot shower…for all of 4 minutes! Good thing was that I could turn it off and on at will, thereby not risking the water finishing and a head still covered in suds. As well, if that happened, my minuscule piece of micro-fleece that I call  a towel can barley cover my private parts if I had to step out of the shower to go get some more tokens.


My dinner…and a bottle of German brew somewhere around.


My day was done. I had cooked a simple dinner (if only to get a fire going on the cool multi-fuel stove that I loved playing with 🙂 after which I hunkered down for the night in my cosy little tent. It was a quiet place unlike in Koblenze where the long-distance trains passed by all night long.


Tomorrow, I will visit Germany’s most famous landmark (that’s what they claim anyway), the Cathedral Dom. There was another thing I had to do as well. After seeing the many locks on the bridge, I too wanted to be part of it 🙂


Distance today: 35km
Distance to date: 322km

Playback today’s ride at Garmin Connect






Day 5, 9 Sep, Koblenze to Bonn

The weatherman was right again – it was like summer; warm, sunny and dry with cool winds, perfect conditions for cycling.

It was still beginning of the trip and I was not very efficient at packing up yet. Although Bonn was 70kms away and I started late at noon, I estimated I should be there way before dark at 7.30pm.

The road out of the campsite led straight out to cycle path next to the Rhine and very soon, I got into the rhythm. It was an uneventful but absorbing ride.  There’s always something to see, and the Rhine, including the riverbank was quite busy … probably more so because of the fine weather.

Once out of Bonn, the cycle path took on a very pleasant outlook

In many places along the cycle path, benches are provided for the public. I stopped here for a quick bite and just to enjoy a quiet moment.


My quick bite — a satisfying porky sandwich



Right after this ancient-looking crane, the cycle path took a sharp left inland…


Through a tunnel..


And then up on on a path that was now higher than the road


Trains would zoom by every 15 minutes or so.


while cars zoomed by overhead

More twists and turns followed …

until I came to this an antiquated wooden bridge across an estuary.

Except for racers in training, no one else rides fast along this cycle route, least of all me. There’s just so much to be enthralled with…

including scenes of colourful denizens of the Rhine banks — like this mom and baby out for an evening ride.

When I reached Bonn, I realized there were no nearby campgrounds marked on my GPS, so I did a quick search on Googlemap, and with its GPS directions, I ended up at Max Hostel, a super-clean hostel manned by an almost bald friendly guy with a small pigtail. Everything was quite efficient in typical German manner – from the electronic front door to the electronically locked door of the 8-bed dorm I was assigned to.

It was a real bother hauling up so much baggage up to the dorm. Camping was certainly much easier — I simply threw everything into the tent. Privacy is assured and one is always close to nature.

One of the first buildings one sees upon entering Bonn — DHL, the German giant of couriers

In the centre of Bonn

Here in the city, some cycle paths are sandwiched between car and bus lanes. Can be quite intimidating at first but with the Germans, you never have to worry … they always give way to cyclists.

Tomorrow, I’m off to Cologne, or Koln, as the Germans call it, and a visit to the most famous of Germany’s cathedrals — Cathedral Dom.


Distance today:: 77km
Distance to date:: 259km

Playback today’s ride on Garmin Connect