The ferry to Vypin Island is just one of the many ferries connecting the many backwaters that dot the state of Kerala. Like most of the backwater ferries, it’s just a short ride across the water from Fort Cochin. The fare for cyclists is just 3 Rupees. The ticket seller, lodged inside his tiny box with a tiny window, is not a very nice man. Twice, he pushes back the Rupee note that I hand him, saying something which I obviously do not comprehend but my guess is he wants exact change. Seeing this hapless foreigner not getting anywhere, a young man behind me tells me he’ll pay for me instead; “no problem”. Saved yet again by a kind soul.
Once on Vypin Island, I point by bike west and soon, I’m pedalling along a sandy, coconut-tree-lined country road running parallel to the sea. It’s a bright, beautiful blue-skies kind of day. And scorchingly hot, too. Well, better than riding in freezing temperatures, I always say. But at least it’s not as humid as I thought it would be.
Throughout the day, I wind in and out, alternating between sandy paths and dirt roads; sometimes roads with water on both sides. These are the backwater roads connecting the many houses and villages along the way. Sometimes I hit a dead end while riding along the beach, then I simply head inwards and try to find another entrance to the beach again.
By mid-afternoon, I’m find myself on Cherai Beach, a sliver of land with the sea on both sides of it. A single sealed road runs the entire length of it. It’s a breathtakingly beautiful place, and popular with backpackers who come to Cochin although it’s not crowded with them. I regret not bringing my tent. This is a great camping spot.
At the end of Cherai beach is Munambam, from where I will take another ferry across Periyar River to Azhikode. Again, I quickly head west after disembarking and find myself riding along quiet village roads. The roads here are surprisingly of very decent quality, and it’s such a joy to ride slowly along and absorb the local colour, smells and sounds that permeate the air.
My stop for the day is the town of Triprayar. Leaving the quiet village roads, I head for route 17, the main thoroughfare that’s typical of a busy Indian road. Honk, honk, honk … cars, trucks, busses, motos … whatever, they never stop honking. Well, at least you know when something’s coming up behind you.
Tripayar seems to be a bustling little town. The main street is busy, noisy and very colourful. I zero in on a hotel I’d read about — Dreamland. Newish looking, it’s located on the main road. The room is 700R, no aircon but it’s big and comfortable. No free wifi — Internet is 50R an hr.
Cochi to Triprayar: 70 kms.