Tour of Hokkaido, Day 14, Rishiri Island to Wakkanai

I’m camped under the quiet shade of some trees. The temperature is an agreeably cool and dry 21º. The vestibule flaps are rolled all the way up on both sides, and the tent door is open to an expansive view of Wakkanai town, all the way across to the other side of Soya Bay. But, there’s something else here that is totally unexpected.

Free-roaming deer.

I couldn’t have asked for a more inspiring place to spend the night, which makes free-camping Wakkanai Park the top campsite in my 2-week tour of Hokkaido.

I had arrived earlier from Rishiri on the 8am ferry, arriving 2 hrs 20 minutes later at Wakkanai. I’m alone again; the Denises enjoyed riding the Rishiri cycling road so much they want to do the whole 20 kms of it. I don’t blame them; I would too if I had an extra day to spare.

According to my trusty Mapple, the campsite nearest to town is just behind it. I take a closer look at it and I’m a bit confused. All I can see is a hill rising up, stretching almost all the way to the end of the town. My guess is it’s either on top somewhere, or over the other side.

A petrol station attendant gives me directions to the campsite after I show him the map. The entry point is behind a hospital, but the bush-covered sides of the narrow road that points upwards make me wonder if I’m on the right path.

Overgrown with bushes and deserted, this is actually the old road up to Wakkanai Park

A viewing tower at the top of the hill. I guess only hikers and cyclists use this road which joins up near the park to the new road.

On the way, I came upon this group of kindergarten kids and their teachers who assured me I was on the right track.

After that lonely ride up the deserted road, I’m greeted by a cemetery

The carpark and entrance to Wakkanai Park and campsite

Hilltop parks make the best campsites


As always, my own personal pavilion comes into very good use

My marathon train journey begins tomorrow at 7am. I’ve got myself an empty Seicomarto box that, when cut, fits the sides of the bike bag perfectly. I’ve also made sure that when they open at 6am, there’ll be freshly made onigiri on the shelves. “Many, many..”, the friendly Seicomarto cashier assured me. Onigiri, many many of it, is going to be part of my food supply for the almost 15-hour journey by train to Haneda airport.

My dinner of sushi, tamago, fried chicken, real-potato french fries in a cup, and a can of Asahi Dry Black makes it almost a feast, by camping standards.

I stay up as long as I can to enjoy my last night in Japan. From inside my tent, I can see the moon, almost full, and in all its lunar magnificence; casting its golden glow on the night sky, over the bay and on the town below. The temperature has dipped down to 18 since the sun went down. As I slip inside my sleeping bag and zip it all the way to my neck, I’m overwhelmed with a sense of achievement and contentment, and the joy of having connected with this beautiful country — its culture, its heritage, its sights, and most of all, its people.


5 thoughts on “Tour of Hokkaido, Day 14, Rishiri Island to Wakkanai

  1. What a fitting blessing to mark the end of your journey – Beautiful deers! I’m so glad my “son” could accompany you to see and experience such beauty. So sad your journey, that has filled my last few weeks with such armchair adventures, had come to an end 😦

  2. ‘As the deer panteth for the water….’

    Couldn’t have asked for a better ending, can I?
    BTW, adventures never really end, they only go on a hiatus… we shall hit the road again. Soon :-))

  3. I just came to realize the tent u use is slightly different fr the green one in previous trip. This is new or more suitable for the weather?

    Wonderful journey…guess I will have to wait for the next trip!

  4. Just found your blog as I prepare for a trip to Hokkaido, am really enjoying all your stories and pictures! I was wondering, since it looks like you were in Hokkaido in August, is it possible to wander into a campground and get a site, or is everything so busy that I need to book ahead? Hope you are enjoying your latest trip 🙂

    • HI Allie, even though it’s summer, the campgrounds are never really full. If you’re alone, you shouldn’t have a problem finding a spot. In any case, every town, big or small, has a park and you can camp in them…for free…just be respectful, keep clean and no one will bother you. Japanese people will never think of invading your privacy…it’s just not them. Have a great tour of Hokkaido.
      Cheers 🙂

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